Resin print operating instructions

Resin printing first operating instructions according to the print

Before the first print a Z-axis calibration must be performed, in new printers like Mighty 14K it is done automatically, in old ones it must be done with A4 pages, each printer has a different number of pages later we will explain how to know.
A projection screen test must be performed to make sure everything arrived from the factory properly.
It is recommended to download the latest Chitubox version .
After everything is correct, print the XP-Validation file.
If it is not possible to print, it is recommended to check on the machine manufacturer’s website whether there is a version update, if there is no need to check which version of Chitubox it is possible to work.
Regarding calibration files, there are other TEST files but they take longer instead of 5-10 minutes 20-40 minutes (depending on material).

First run resin printing XP-Validation

Before printing the file it is important to set without anti-aliasing otherwise the test will not be performed properly (for other models it is advisable to add yes).
Make sure that the circle and its opposite shape are exactly the same (after printing).
If the full circle is larger, the UV exposure time is too long, and if the circle is not larger, there is no time.
In the picture below you can see some overexposure time, in the small arrow holes are closing, and the positive circle is a little bigger.
There are 2 ways to treat either shrinkage percentage or exposure time.
Those who work with large printers or a large number of models are recommended a slightly longer exposure time with shrinkage percentages according to need

Checking the height of the product using XP-Validation

Besides checking the XY dimensions, it is important to check the height of the product to be the same as 1.4 mm, otherwise the test is not 100% accurate.
If the size is a little smaller 1.2 mm and all our products are on supports there will be no effect, but if there are products that attach to the brace there will indeed be a deviation.
There are printers that allow Z-Offset like Mighty8K, and there are some that simply need to be calibrated with more A4 pages.
If the size is smaller than 1.4 mm (the height of the model in the link) it is recommended to calibrate with more pages depending on the deviation in the ratio of a page for a smaller one of 0.2 mm (on the contrary), a range of 0.05 mm is considered normal in terms of dimensions.
If you really want to make the measurement more accurate, a longer exposure time in the first layers can increase the measurement by a few hundred mm.

supports

The settings of chitubox are not 100% and also need optimization.
It is recommended to significantly reduce the diameter of the base (especially in large printers), Raft is prohibited, and it is important to have a breaking point that will not tear off part of the model.
There are those who prefer without a breaking point, but it is important to be experienced in fine cutting in order to avoid tearing off part of the model.
You can download a ready support profile from here…
Suitable for Chitubox registered for Mighty8K but suitable for all printers (no difference in settings).

Resin settings

Resin settings of chitubox are also not 100% here and also need optimization.
You can get general information that can give a good starting point here…
Choose the Phrozen printer you have and all their materials and other common niche materials are there.
It is recommended to start the data for the TEST file from here so that it is possible to quickly reach a good result.
There will not always be a graded profile, meaning the first 2 mm Z will be slow and then faster, and on the return a rapid descent and towards the end to slow down, in order to save time without compromising quality.
In thick materials such as engineering or temporary and permanent crowns, a slower speed and relatively high elevation in the Z axis is recommended to give time for the material to enter and prevent air pockets (a longer wait is also recommended).

Associated processes for resin printing

After printing, you need to clean the resin residues according to the type of material, alcohol or water (there are 2 bases).
If it is alcohol, it is possible to dry by evaporating for about half an hour waiting, air pressure (a few minutes) or a machine that has drying together with built-in UV.
A water base is recommended, air pressure or a machine that has drying together with built-in UV
Drying in the open air is allowed, but the water takes longer.
It is important to make sure to clean and dry well otherwise the model will be sticky and improper.
In the dental field, sometimes a double cleaning chamber is also performed in order to guarantee quality.

In conclusion

Resin printing operating instructions here help to achieve better results.
Most users do not take Resin settings seriously, some of the field can be less strict, in areas such as dental laboratories and jewelry, strictness is extremely important.
In smaller printers it is easy to achieve results without being careful, in very large printers like the Mega 8K V2 it is impossible to succeed without being careful about all the details. (especially when the tray is full)
You can sign up for basic digital training at no cost here …
It is recommended to enter the training and familiarize yourself with the operating instructions such as: vacuum problem, printing angles, Resin settings, light\medium\heavy supports and related processes.
To register for the Facebook group managed by us – jewelers and goldsmiths 3D printers – the official group